Hiking the Yorkshire 3 Peaks

On a cool and cloudy September morning last year, my partner and I rose before dawn, waking up in the misty chill of the first morning light. We set out on a long, challenging day of hiking, leaving our little tent in a campsite nestled in the Yorkshire Dales.

Train crossing Ribblehead viaduct on the Settle to Carlisle line
A train crossing the Ribblehead Viaduct at the start of our long day of hiking

The UK has two “3 Peaks” challenges. In the national one, you climb Ben Nevis (the Cairngorms, Scotland), Scafell Pike (the Lake District, England) and Snowdon / Yr Wyddfa (Wales) in under 24 hours.

As the mountains are far apart, with at least 7.5 hours of driving between Ben Nevis and Snowdon, my brother describes it as “mostly motorway driving with some mountains in between!”

For the Yorkshire 3 Peaks, hiking between the mountains is part of the route. A circular route, summiting the peaks of Pen-y-Ghent, Ingleborough and Whernside, runs for 24 miles and encompasses 1,600 metres of elevation. To put that into scale, the Burj Khalifa in Dubai – the tallest building in the world to date – stands at 828 metres.

Hiking up Whernside. A ribbon of path for miles.

Our 2023 ascent of the 3 Peaks was the second time completing the challenge. We had already hiked it a year prior, but the real challenge is hiking it in under 12 hours. Our 2022 time came in at 13 hours, 5 minutes, so we decided to return and attempt to meet the 12-hour threshold.

At this point, I should add I had done very little preparation, unlike my partner, who is a marathon-fit runner. A few months before, in May 2023, we had spent 10 days hiking the Greek island of Corfu from south to north, but any stamina that I had built up waned quickly. I’m sure that a training plan in the summer would have helped me be more resilient for the Peaks.

Descending Whernside (the first peak)

At the end of the day, we finished by hiking 24.86 miles in 12 hours, 42 minutes. I’m still determined to go back and improve on my time — third time lucky!

On the day, I went through a whole range of emotions. Being on the trail, surrounded by chirping skylarks and passing only 2 or 3 other hikers during the whole day, I felt a peace like no other. I only ever feel this sense of true relaxation when I’m away from any sign of civilization – no traffic noise or advertising or electricity pylons.

Towards Ingleborough, our second peak of the day

But I haven’t yet hiked long distances without feeling some level of physical and mental exhaustion. I remember vividly sitting down on a bridge and removing my hiking boots for a moment’s rest. My feet weren’t blistered, but the soles simply hurt from the impact of walking on stony tracks for miles and miles. Standing up again and starting to walk was so much harder, it probably would have been best to just keep on going.

My goal next time is to really observe and sit with the discomfort without trying to fight against it. It’s interesting to me how physical challenges can have such an impact on your mood. My partner has observed that I tend to go quiet and retreat inwards – this also happens to me when I need food or water!

On my way up Ingleborough (peak 2). Rounding the corner but not at the top yet!

The weather was an added challenge. In 2022, we had blue sky and could see for miles. But last year, we had poor visibility from the start, so we wore anoraks to avoid getting soaked from the damp mist. I prefer not to feel weighed down so, when possible, I just wore my lightweight hiking T-shirt and walking trousers.

A tough climb up Pen-y-Ghent, our last peak. Exhausted by this point.

I hope for many more long-distance walks (we’re planning a Greek island route in spring 2025) and to work hard on my fitness and strength, given some health challenges I have with my hip and knee. I’m very reluctant to start having regular steroid injections, although I did have one before hiking in Corfu and the effect was great, albeit short-lived and temporary relief.

The 3 Peaks Challenge in 2024, here we come!

Have you ever done a long-distance hike or run? What tips would you give someone who’s new to endurance activities?

Memories of a Greek childhood

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In some ways, my childhood wasn’t dissimilar to Gerald Durrell’s. When I was ten, I lived on the Greek island of Lesvos for six months while my mother was doing academic research there.

Being home-schooled, I was brought up with the luxury of having the freedom to learn outside a classroom. And while my textbooks accompanied us to Greece, I spent a lot of time — like Durrell — observing the animals on the island. Continue reading

A Week in the Wild West (of Scotland)

 

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June was a month of travelling for me. After a short break in Madrid, I spent a week in the wild west of Scotland. The Ardnamurchan peninsula is the most westerly point in the UK and it’s very remote. There are no towns, no shopping malls, and barely any cellphone reception. It’s a perfect place to relax and spend some time at a slower pace of life – reading, hiking, eating good food, and watching out for wildlife. Continue reading

Travel Goals – five destinations on my list

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October is just around the corner and the days are drawing in. My summer vacations — spent in Spain and Scotland — are now just memories and photographs. I’m thinking ahead to places where I’d like to go next year: five very different destinations. Which places — cities, countries, regions — are on your must-visit travel list?

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Travels in Madrid: Part 3 – art galleries, Egyptian temples and more

After the busy sight-seeing in Toledo on the second day of my trip to Spain, my friend had to work on the third day, so I ventured out into Madrid on my own. I decided to go to El Museo Nacional del Prado — one of the most magnificent art galleries in the world.

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Before you can enter the museum, you have to go through a more basic version of airport-style security: bags through the scanner as you walk through a metal detector. As I only had a small backpack, I was allowed to carry it with me but people with any larger bags had to leave them in a room behind the security desk. Continue reading

Travels in Spain: Part 2 – Adventures in Toledo

If you read my previous post, you’ll know that at the beginning of June I flew to Madrid for a four-day mini vacation. Four days isn’t a long time, but it’s surprising just how much you can see, do and experience in that time. I spent three days in Madrid and one day in Toledo, a nearby city.

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A view of Toledo, looking back across El Puente de San Martin (Bridge of St. Martin)

 

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Travels in Madrid – Part 1

At the beginning of June, I spent four days in Madrid, visiting a Spanish friend who is living there and studying for her Master’s degree. I am already longing to go back. The city is beautiful, filled with gorgeous architecture, elegant parks and expansive boulevards.

On the first day of my visit, we went on a three-hour walking tour around the city. I chose to go on the Spanish-language tour, but it is available in English too. We began in Plaza Mayor. Like many Spanish cities, Madrid is a city filled with plazas (squares), but Plaza Mayor is the main square — popular with locals (madrileños) and tourists alike.

Plaza Mayor Madrid

The largest and most central square in Madrid, Plaza Mayor is lined with tapas bars and restaurants.

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